Pest Proofing Your Yard: How To Keep Critters Out Of Your Yard

Keeping critters out of your yard and garden can feel like a tough job, but yes, you can take many steps to stop them from causing trouble. This guide will show you how to make your yard less inviting to unwanted animal guests using smart strategies and simple methods. You will learn how to identify common yard pests, use yard fencing solutions, find animal repellent outdoor options, try natural pest control yard ideas, remove animal attractants yard, and even understand humane animal exclusion techniques. We will look at critter proofing strategies to prevent garden damage animals cause and know when you might need professional wildlife control.

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Deciphering Who Is Visiting Your Yard

First, you need to know what animals are coming around. Different critters cause different problems and need different solutions. Knowing your visitors helps you choose the right plan.

Signs of Common Yard Pests

Look for clues animals leave behind. This tells you who is visiting and what they are doing.

• Deer:
  • Eat the tops of plants, leaves, and buds.
  • Leave torn or ragged edges on eaten plants.
  • May rub antlers on tree trunks, scraping the bark.
  • Leave large, pellet-like droppings.
  • You might see their tracks (hoof prints).
• Rabbits:
  • Nibble on low plants, often cutting small stems cleanly.
  • Eat young plants, vegetables, and flowers.
  • Leave small, round droppings.
  • May hide under bushes or sheds.
• Squirrels & Chipmunks:
  • Dig small holes, especially in garden beds or pots, looking for buried nuts or bulbs.
  • Eat nuts, seeds, fruits, and sometimes damage tree bark.
  • Raid bird feeders.
  • Run along fences or branches.
• Raccoons:
  • Tip over garbage cans.
  • Tear up lawns or gardens looking for grubs or insects.
  • Eat fruits, vegetables, and pet food left outside.
  • May make dens in attics, chimneys, or under decks.
• Skunks:
  • Dig small, cone-shaped holes in lawns looking for grubs.
  • Have a very strong, unpleasant smell.
  • Are often seen at dawn or dusk.
• Groundhogs (Woodchucks):
  • Eat a lot of garden vegetables and plants quickly.
  • Leave large burrows with mounds of dirt near the entrance.
  • Are often seen sitting upright near their burrows.
• Birds:
  • Eat fruits or berries off bushes and trees.
  • Peck at garden vegetables (like tomatoes).
  • Can damage seedlings.
  • Leave droppings.

Knowing what animal is causing the issue is the first step in critter proofing strategies. Once you know who you are dealing with, you can pick the best ways to stop them.

Making Your Yard Less Tasty and Welcoming

Animals come to your yard for food, water, or shelter. If you take these things away, your yard becomes less attractive. This is a key part of how to remove animal attractants yard.

Taking Away Food Sources

This is often the biggest reason animals visit.

• Secure Your Garbage:
  • Use trash cans with tight-fitting lids.
  • You can use bungee cords to keep lids on.
  • Store trash cans in a shed or garage until pickup day.
  • Rinse out food containers before putting them in the trash or recycling.
• Manage Pet Food:
  • Do not leave pet food bowls outside, especially overnight.
  • Feed pets indoors if possible.
  • Store pet food bags in sealed containers that animals cannot chew through.
• Clean Up Fallen Fruit and Nuts:
  • If you have fruit trees or nut trees, pick up fallen fruit and nuts often.
  • This removes an easy meal for many animals like deer, raccoons, squirrels, and rodents.
• Rethink Bird Feeders:
  • Bird feeders are a big draw for squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, and even bears in some areas.
  • Consider taking feeders down for a while if they are causing animal problems.
  • Use squirrel-proof feeders.
  • Clean up spilled seeds under feeders regularly.
• Protect Your Garden Produce:
  • Harvest vegetables and fruits as soon as they are ripe.
  • Do not let ripe produce sit on plants for too long.
  • Use protective measures like netting or cages around plants (more on this later).
• Consider Your Compost Pile:
  • Open compost piles can attract raccoons, rodents, and other animals looking for food scraps.
  • Use a closed compost bin.
  • Do not add meat, dairy, or oily foods to your compost, as these are very attractive to pests.

Removing Water Sources

Animals also need water. Removing easy access to water can help.

• Fix Leaks: Repair leaky outdoor faucets or irrigation systems.
• Empty Standing Water: Get rid of containers that collect water, like old tires or buckets.
• Manage Bird Baths: If you have bird baths, consider emptying them at night if they are attracting unwanted nighttime visitors like raccoons.

Taking Away Shelter

Animals look for safe places to rest, raise young, or hide from weather.

• Trim Overgrown Bushes and Weeds: Thick, overgrown areas offer great hiding spots for rabbits, rodents, and other small animals. Keep these areas tidy.
• Secure Spaces Under Decks and Sheds: Animals like skunks, raccoons, groundhogs, and rabbits love to make homes under raised structures.
  • Block off access points with sturdy wire mesh (like hardware cloth) that goes from the structure down into the ground. Bury the mesh 6-12 inches deep and bend the bottom 6 inches outwards in an ‘L’ shape to stop burrowing animals.
• Close Off Sheds and Outbuildings: Repair holes in walls, floors, or roofs of sheds and garages. Make sure doors and windows seal properly.
• Stack Firewood Away From Buildings: Woodpiles can be homes for rodents and insects. Stack wood neatly and away from the house or other structures.

By taking these steps to remove animal attractants yard, you make your property much less appealing to hungry or homeless critters.

Building Solid Barriers

Physical barriers are one of the most effective critter proofing strategies, especially for protecting specific areas like gardens. Yard fencing solutions are a primary tool here.

Choosing the Right Fence

The type of fence you need depends on the animal you want to keep out.

• Height Matters:
  • Deer: Need very tall fences. 8 feet is often needed to stop them from jumping over. Angled fences (slanted outwards from the garden) can be effective even at slightly lower heights (6 feet) as deer are less likely to jump something that feels unstable or is hard to clear.
  • Rabbits, Skunks, Groundhogs, Raccoons: Do not need super tall fences, but they can climb or go under. 2-4 feet is often enough height, but focus on the bottom.
• Mesh Size Matters:
  • Rabbits, Squirrels, Chipmunks, Rodents: Need fences with small openings so they cannot squeeze through. Use chicken wire or hardware cloth with openings no larger than 1 inch. Smaller (like 1/2 inch hardware cloth) is better for smaller rodents.
  • Deer, Raccoons: Larger mesh like welded wire or even electric fence strands can work, as they are less likely to squeeze but you still need height or other deterrents.
• Going Underground:
  • Animals like rabbits, groundhogs, skunks, and sometimes raccoons will dig under fences.
  • To stop burrowing, bury the bottom of the fence.
  • Bury wire mesh (like hardware cloth) 6-12 inches deep.
  • Bend the bottom 6 inches of the buried mesh outwards in an ‘L’ shape. This is a buried apron. When an animal tries to dig near the fence, they hit this buried wire and usually give up. This is vital for prevent garden damage animals cause by digging.

Types of Yard Fencing Solutions

Here are common fence types used for keeping animals out:

• Woven Wire or Welded Wire Fence:
  • Good general barrier.
  • Comes in different heights and mesh sizes.
  • Needs sturdy posts.
  • Must be buried to stop digging.
• Chain Link Fence:
  • Strong and durable.
  • Mesh size can be an issue for small animals.
  • Can be climbed by raccoons and squirrels unless extra measures are taken (like adding mesh or electric wire).
  • Needs to be buried.
• Hardware Cloth:
  • Sturdy wire mesh with very small openings (1/2 inch or 1 inch).
  • Excellent for keeping out small animals like rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, and voles.
  • Often used to create smaller barriers around gardens or to critter-proof openings under decks.
  • Must be buried.
• Chicken Wire:
  • Flexible wire mesh, often with 1-inch hexagonal openings.
  • Good for keeping out rabbits from gardens if buried properly.
  • Less sturdy than hardware cloth or welded wire.
  • Small rodents can sometimes squeeze through the openings.
• Electric Fence:
  • Uses mild electric shocks to deter animals. It does not harm them seriously.
  • Can be very effective for larger animals like deer or raccoons.
  • Can use multiple strands at different heights for different animals.
  • Low-voltage electric fences are a humane animal exclusion method.
  • Needs a power source and proper setup to be safe and effective.
  • May need signs to warn people.
• Plastic Mesh Fencing:
  • Lightweight and often used for temporary garden fencing or deer fencing.
  • Needs sturdy posts.
  • Height is key for deer (8 feet).
  • Not usually buried, so burrowing animals can get under. Not strong enough for determined chewers.

Fencing for Specific Areas

You may not need to fence your entire yard. Fencing just the garden area or specific plants can be enough.

• Garden Beds:
  • Use wire mesh cages or tunnels over rows of vegetables.
  • Build simple frame structures and cover them with netting or hardware cloth. This prevent garden damage animals like rabbits and birds cause to vulnerable plants.
  • For raised beds, extend the wire mesh up the sides and bury it around the bottom perimeter of the bed.
• Individual Plants or Shrubs:
  • Use wire cages around young trees or shrubs to protect them from deer browsing or rabbit gnawing.
  • Tree guards around trunks protect bark from deer rubbing or rodent chewing.

Properly installed fences, especially those buried at the bottom, are a top critter proofing strategy for long-term animal control.

Using Smart Deterrents

Sometimes physical barriers are not practical everywhere. Wildlife deterrent methods use an animal’s senses (smell, taste, sight, sound) to make your yard seem unsafe or unpleasant. These are often animal repellent outdoor products or devices.

Scent and Taste Repellents

These work by smelling bad to animals or making plants taste awful. Many natural pest control yard options fall into this category.

• Commercial Repellents:
  • Contain ingredients animals dislike, like rotten eggs, garlic, capsaicin (from chili peppers), or animal urine (like coyote or fox urine).
  • Come in liquid or granular form.
  • Need to be reapplied regularly, especially after rain.
  • Effectiveness varies depending on the animal and how hungry it is.
• DIY or Natural Repellents:
  • Predator Urine: Buying urine from predators (like fox or coyote) can make prey animals (like rabbits or deer) feel unsafe. Place it in small containers or sprinkle granules around the area you want to protect.
  • Blood Meal: The smell of blood meal can deter some herbivores like deer and rabbits. Sprinkle it around plants. Note it is also a fertilizer.
  • Soap: Hanging bars of strong-smelling soap (like Irish Spring) from trees or stakes can deter deer.
  • Human Hair: Some people report success scattering human hair around gardens, as the scent can alarm some animals.
  • Strong Smelling Plants: Planting certain strong-smelling plants is a natural pest control yard method. Examples include garlic, onions, marigolds, mint, or certain herbs around valuable plants. Their smell might help mask the smell of your prize plants or be unpleasant to the animal.
  • Capsaicin Sprays: Sprays made with hot pepper extract can deter animals by taste. Be careful when applying these and follow instructions.

Sound Deterrents

Animals can be scared away by sudden or unpleasant sounds.

• Ultrasonic Devices:
  • Emit high-frequency sound waves that humans cannot hear well, but are irritating to animals.
  • Effectiveness is debated and can vary. Sound waves can be blocked by objects. Animals may get used to the sound over time.
  • Place them where animals enter or frequent the yard.
• Motion-Activated Alarms:
  • Combine motion sensors with loud noises, sometimes even predator calls.
  • The sudden sound can startle animals and make them leave. Like ultrasonic devices, animals might get used to them.

Visual Deterrents

Some objects can scare animals by looking like predators or something unexpected.

• Shiny Objects: Hanging old CDs, aluminum foil strips, or reflective tape can scare birds and some small mammals with their movement and flashes of light.
• Scarecrows or Predator Decoys:
  • Owl or coyote decoys can sometimes deter animals.
  • Need to be moved often, or animals will learn they are not real threats.
  • Motion-activated versions (like flapping wings) work better.
• Motion-Activated Lights:
  • A sudden bright light turning on can startle nocturnal animals like raccoons, skunks, or deer.
  • Place lights to cover areas where animals enter or feed.

Motion-Activated Sprinklers

These are often very effective wildlife deterrent methods because they combine surprise, movement, and an unpleasant spray of water.

• How they work: A motion sensor detects an animal entering a zone, and a sprinkler quickly sprays water in that direction.
• Benefits:
  • Humane: It just scares the animal, no harm done. This is a great humane animal exclusion tool.
  • Animals find the sudden spray very startling.
  • Can be effective against deer, raccoons, rabbits, stray cats, and other ground-level critters.
• Considerations:
  • Need a water source and placement where they won’t constantly spray people or pets.
  • May not work on animals that are very thirsty or used to water.

When using animal repellent outdoor products or wildlife deterrent methods, remember that persistence is key. Animals might get used to some deterrents over time. Using a mix of different strategies often works best. Rotate the types of deterrents you use.

Humane Removal and Exclusion

Sometimes animals are already living in a space you need them out of, like under a shed or in a porch. Humane animal exclusion focuses on safely removing the animal and then sealing off the entry point so they cannot come back.

Steps for Humane Exclusion

• Identify the Entry Point: Find where the animal is getting in and out. Look for tracks, disturbed dirt, or worn paths near potential openings.
• Figure Out If Animals Are Present:
  • Sprinkle a layer of flour or sand near the opening. Check later for tracks going in or out.
  • Lightly place crumpled newspaper or leaves in the opening. See if it is disturbed after a while.
  • Watch the entry point at dawn and dusk, which is when many animals are active.
  • Be sure there are no baby animals inside before you seal it up! Sealing babies inside is not humane and will cause major problems later. If it’s spring or summer, there likely are babies. Wait until they are old enough to leave with the mother, or call a professional.
• Install a One-Way Door: This is a simple device, often made of wire mesh or netting, that is attached over the entry point. It allows the animal to leave but not get back in.
  • Install the one-way door securely over the main entry hole.
  • Animals usually leave at their normal time (often dawn or dusk) to find food or water.
  • Leave the one-way door in place for a few days to be sure all animals have left.
• Permanently Seal the Opening: Once you are certain no animals are inside (especially no babies!), remove the one-way door and seal the opening with sturdy materials like heavy-gauge wire mesh (hardware cloth), concrete, or thick boards. Bury the bottom edge of the patch into the ground to prevent digging.

Other Humane Methods

• Live Trapping (Use with Caution):
  • Live traps catch the animal without harming it.
  • Important: Before using live traps, check local laws! It is often illegal or restricted to trap and move certain animals.
  • Trapping only removes one animal; others may move in.
  • Relocating animals can be harmful to them. They may not find food or shelter, or they may spread disease to other animal populations. They might try very hard to get back to your yard.
  • If you trap an animal, you must know what to do with it according to local rules. Often, calling a professional wildlife control service is the best and most humane option if trapping is necessary.

Humane animal exclusion focuses on preventing future problems by blocking access after the animal is safely out, rather than just removing the animal temporarily.

Critter Proofing Strategies Beyond Fences and Repellents

Good critter proofing strategies involve thinking about all the ways animals interact with your yard.

Protecting Specific Plants or Areas

• Netting: Use fine mesh netting draped over fruit trees, berry bushes, or vegetable rows to keep birds, squirrels, and other climbing animals off your produce.
• Cages: Build wire cages around young trees, shrubs, or vulnerable plants to protect them from browsing animals.
• Mulch Choice: Some mulches (like sharp gravel or coarse bark) might be less inviting for digging animals than soft mulch.

Addressing Climbing Animals

Squirrels and raccoons can climb fences and trees.

• Baffle Bird Feeders: Use cone-shaped or dome-shaped baffles on poles or hanging feeders to stop squirrels.
• Trim Tree Branches: Keep tree branches trimmed away from your house roof, fences, or decks. This stops squirrels and raccoons from using them as bridges.
• Secure Chimneys: Install sturdy wire mesh caps on chimneys to stop raccoons and squirrels from nesting inside.
• Seal House Entry Points: Check your home’s siding, roof, and foundation for any small gaps or holes. Seal these to prevent animals from getting inside the house after they are in your yard. Pay attention to vents, eaves, and pipe openings. Use materials animals cannot chew through, like hardware cloth or metal flashing.

Managing Pet and Animal Waste

Animal droppings can sometimes attract other animals or insects. Clean up pet waste regularly.

Knowing When to Call For Professional Help

While many critter proofing strategies can be done yourself, there are times when calling professional wildlife control is the safest and most effective choice.

Situations Where a Professional is Needed:

• Dangerous Animals: If the animal is large, aggressive, or potentially carrying diseases (like rabies, though this is rare), do not try to handle it yourself. Call a professional.
• Animals Inside Your Home: If animals have gotten into your attic, walls, chimney, or crawl space, removing them can be complex and dangerous. Professionals have the tools and knowledge to safely remove them and prevent them from getting back in.
• Protected Species: Some animals are protected by law. It may be illegal to trap or harm them. Professionals know the laws and how to deal with protected wildlife humanely and legally.
• Large Infestations: If you have a large number of animals causing problems, a professional can assess the situation and implement broad solutions.
• When DIY Methods Fail: If you have tried several methods (removing attractants, fences, repellents) and the animals are still a big problem, a professional can offer more advanced solutions or trapping services where allowed.
• Difficult Exclusion Jobs: Sealing hard-to-reach entry points or dealing with animals in complex structures requires expertise.
• Animal Carcasses: If an animal dies in an inaccessible place (like inside a wall), a professional can remove it safely and deal with cleanup.

Professional wildlife control services understand animal behavior, have the right equipment, and know the regulations for dealing with different species. They can provide a comprehensive plan for critter proofing strategies tailored to your specific problem.

Keeping Up The Work

Keeping critters out of your yard is not usually a one-time fix. Animals are always looking for resources. Ongoing effort is important.

• Regular Checks: Walk around your yard and garden often. Look for signs of animal activity or new damage.
• Maintain Barriers: Check fences, netting, and other barriers for holes or damage. Repair them quickly.
• Reapply Deterrents: Scent and taste repellents wear off. Reapply them as needed, especially after rain or watering. Rotate the types of repellents you use so animals don’t get used to them.
• Stay Tidy: Continue to manage food sources, clean up debris, and keep overgrown areas trimmed.

By being watchful and keeping your yard clean and secure, you reduce the chances of animals moving in.

Conclusion

Keeping critters out of your yard is a process of making your property less attractive and harder to access. Start by identifying which animals are visiting and what is attracting them. Remove animal attractants yard like unsecured garbage, pet food, and fallen fruit. Install yard fencing solutions or other physical barriers like netting to prevent garden damage animals cause. Use animal repellent outdoor sprays or devices as wildlife deterrent methods, exploring natural pest control yard options. For animals already denning, use humane animal exclusion techniques. Remember that these critter proofing strategies work best when used together. Be persistent and check your yard regularly. If the problem is too big, involves dangerous animals, or they are inside your home, don’t hesitate to call professional wildlife control. With patience and the right steps, you can enjoy your yard and garden without unwanted animal guests.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Do animal repellents really work?
  Animal repellents can work for a while, but their success varies. They are often best used as a first step or in combination with other methods like fencing. Animals that are very hungry may ignore repellents. You need to reapply them often, especially after rain. Animals can also get used to them over time, so switching types can help.
  

• Are motion-activated sprinklers humane?
  Yes, motion-activated sprinklers are considered humane. They simply spray water to startle the animal and encourage it to leave. They do not cause any physical harm. They are a popular humane animal exclusion tool for keeping animals out of specific areas.
  

• How tall does a fence need to be to stop deer?
  Deer can jump quite high. A fence of 8 feet is generally needed to reliably keep most deer out. Some people use shorter fences (6 feet) that are angled outwards (at 45 degrees) or use double fences spaced a few feet apart, which can also be effective because it makes the jump feel more difficult for the deer.

• Can I use mothballs to keep animals away?
  Using mothballs as an animal repellent outdoor is often suggested, but it is not recommended. Mothballs contain chemicals that can be harmful to pets, children, and the environment. Their effectiveness for deterring animals is also not proven and animals may just avoid the small spot where the mothball is. There are safer and more effective natural pest control yard or commercial repellent options available.

• What is the best way to stop rabbits from eating my garden?
  The most effective way to stop rabbits is usually a physical barrier. A fence made of 1-inch or 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth, at least 2-3 feet high and buried 6-12 inches deep (with the bottom bent outwards), is very effective. You can also use cages or netting directly over vulnerable plants. Removing low-lying hiding spots near the garden helps too.

• When should I stop trying DIY methods and call a professional?
  You should call professional wildlife control if the animal is dangerous (like a potentially rabid animal), if animals are inside your home (attic, walls), if you suspect the animal is protected by law, if you have a very large problem, or if you have honestly tried several different critter proofing strategies (like fences, removing food, repellents) for a reasonable time (a few weeks) and the problem is still happening. Professionals have more resources and knowledge for tough cases.