Raccoons look cute with their bandit masks and bushy tails. But when they visit your yard, they can cause big headaches. They knock over trash cans, dig up gardens, and can even damage your home. Getting them to leave and stay away needs smart steps. This guide tells you how to safely and kindly get raccoons out of your yard.
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Why Raccoons Pick Your Yard
Raccoons come to your yard for simple reasons. They are looking for food, water, and a safe place to rest or raise their young. These are the main attractants for raccoons. If your yard gives them these things easily, they will keep coming back.
Hunting for Meals
Food is the top reason raccoons visit. They are not picky eaters. Your yard might have many yummy things for them.
* Trash Cans: This is like a free buffet for raccoons. Uncovered or easily opened cans are a strong invitation.
* Pet Food: Bowls of pet food left outside are easy targets.
* Bird Feeders: Seeds, nuts, and suet dropped from feeders attract them.
* Gardens: Fresh fruits, vegetables, and even corn are tasty treats. This is often where you need to prevent raccoons in garden issues.
* Grills: Leftover food bits or grease can draw them in.
* Fruit Trees: Fallen fruit on the ground is easy pickings.
* Compost Piles: Food scraps in compost are very appealing.
Finding a Drink
Raccoons need water. They can find it in many places.
* Pet Water Bowls: Another easy source next to the food.
* Bird Baths: Shallow water dishes are handy for them to drink from.
* Ponds or Water Features: If you have decorative ponds, they might drink or even wash food there.
* Leaky Pipes: Even small leaks can give them enough water.
Seeking Shelter
Raccoons need a safe place to sleep during the day or have their babies. They look for spots that are quiet and protected.
* Under Decks or Sheds: These offer dark, hidden spaces.
* Hollow Trees or Logs: Natural spots in or near your yard.
* Attics or Chimneys: If they can get into your house, these make great den sites. Finding raccoon den locations is key to humane removal.
* Brush Piles: Messy areas can give them cover.
Seeing Signs of Raccoons
How can you tell if raccoons are visiting? Look for these signs.
* Knocked-Over Trash Cans: This is a classic sign. Trash is often spread all around.
* Damage in Gardens: Eaten plants, dug-up rows, or damaged fruit. This points to raccoon damage prevention needs.
* Tracks: Raccoons have distinct footprints. Their front paws look a bit like small hands with five long fingers. Their back paws are longer and narrower. Tracks are often found near trash cans, mud, or garden beds.
* Droppings: Raccoon poop can look different depending on what they ate. It’s often tubular and can be found in specific spots they use as a toilet area (called a “latrine”). Be careful; raccoon droppings can have harmful parasites.
* Sounds: You might hear rustling noises at night, or even chattering, growling, or hissing sounds, especially if a mother is with her young.
* Missing Pet Food: If you leave pet food outside, and it’s gone in the morning, raccoons could be the cause.
* Damaged Structures: Look for torn screening on porches, damaged vents, or loose chimney caps if you think they might be trying to get inside.
Here is a table of common signs:
| Sign | What to Look For | Where to Look |
|---|---|---|
| Trash Mess | Cans tipped over, garbage pulled out | Near trash can areas |
| Garden Damage | Eaten fruits/vegetables, dug-up soil | Garden beds, near fruit trees |
| Paw Prints | Small hand-like prints (front), longer prints (back) | Muddy areas, sand, soil near food sources |
| Droppings (Latrines) | Piles of poop, often in repeated spots | Raised areas like decks, logs, rocks, sheds, attics |
| Night Sounds | Rustling, chattering, growling | Near potential den sites, under decks, in attics |
| Missing Food | Pet food bowls empty overnight, bird feeders low | Near house, under bird feeders |
| Structural Damage | Torn screens, loose vents, damaged wood | Around porches, under eaves, rooflines, chimneys |
Taking the First Steps: Removing Attractants
The simplest and most important step is to take away what they want. This makes your yard less interesting to them.
Securing Your Trash
Trash is a major draw. Making it hard to get into is key. This means you need to secure trash cans.
* Use Heavy-Duty Cans: Choose cans made of strong plastic or metal that are hard to tip over.
* Secure Lids: Lids should fit tightly. You can buy special clips, bungee cords, or locking lids made to stop animals.
* Store Cans Securely: If possible, keep trash cans in a garage, shed, or a secured bin until trash day.
* Put Cans Out Morning of Pick-Up: Only put cans outside right before the trash truck comes. Do not put them out the night before.
* Wash Cans: Raccoons are attracted by smells. Rinse your trash cans with ammonia or bleach (be careful when mixing and use in a well-aired space) regularly to remove food smells. A simple mix of soap and water works too.
* Bag Trash Tightly: Put all food waste in sturdy bags and tie them shut before putting them in the can.
Dealing with Pet Food and Water
- Feed Pets Indoors: If you feed pets outside, only leave food out for a short time. When your pet finishes, bring the bowl inside.
- Bring Water Bowls Inside at Night: Don’t leave water out for pets overnight.
Managing Other Food Sources
- Clean Grills: Clean your grill after each use. Burn off food bits and brush the grates. Empty and clean the grease trap.
- Pick Up Fallen Fruit: If you have fruit trees, pick up any fruit that falls to the ground right away.
- Protect Your Garden: This is a major step to
prevent raccoons in gardenareas. Fencing (discussed later) is best. Also, try picking ripe vegetables and fruits as soon as they are ready. - Handle Compost Smartly: Use a compost bin with a secure lid. Avoid putting meat, dairy, or greasy foods in your compost, as these are very appealing to raccoons.
Making Your Yard Unfriendly
Beyond removing food, you can make your yard a place raccoons don’t like to be.
Dealing with Water Sources
- Empty Bird Baths at Night: Simply dump the water out of bird baths before it gets dark.
- Cover Ponds: If you have a pond, you might need netting or other barriers to keep raccoons away.
- Fix Leaks: Repair any leaky outdoor faucets or pipes.
Removing Shelter Spots
Make your yard less cozy for them to hide or build dens.
* Trim Back Bushes and Trees: Remove dense bushes or low-hanging branches near your house that could offer cover.
* Clean Up Piles: Get rid of piles of brush, wood, or debris. These are perfect hiding spots.
* Secure Outbuildings: Make sure sheds and garages are closed and sealed so raccoons can’t get inside.
Building Barriers: Keeping Raccoons Out
Physical barriers are often the most effective way of excluding raccoons from yard areas, especially gardens.
Fencing Your Yard or Garden
- Type of Fence: A standard fence might not be enough. Raccoons are good climbers. A fence needs to be at least 3-4 feet high, but even better is adding something at the top that slopes outwards (like wire mesh) to make climbing over hard.
- Bottom of the Fence: Raccoons can also dig under fences. Bury the bottom of the fence (at least 6 inches deep) or add an L-shaped footer of wire mesh laid flat on the ground outwards from the fence bottom (about 12 inches) and cover it with soil or rocks.
- Electric Fencing: A low-voltage electric fence (two wires placed about 6 and 12 inches off the ground) can be very effective for protecting specific areas like gardens or around trash cans. This gives a harmless but unpleasant shock that teaches them to stay away. Make sure local rules allow this.
Securing Access Points to Buildings
Prevent raccoons from getting into attics, chimneys, crawl spaces, or under decks. This is vital for raccoon damage prevention.
* Chimney Caps: Install a strong metal cap on top of your chimney.
* Secure Vents: Make sure all attic and foundation vents have sturdy screens or covers.
* Repair Holes: Fix any holes or gaps in your roof, walls, or foundation.
* Skirting for Decks/Sheds: Enclose the area under decks and sheds with sturdy wire mesh (like heavy-gauge hardware cloth). Bury the bottom edge into the ground as you would with a fence to stop digging.
Using Repellents: Smells and Sounds
Raccoons have good senses. Some smells or sounds can make them uncomfortable. You can try a raccoon repellent spray or other types of repellents. Keep in mind repellents are often temporary fixes and work best when combined with removing attractants and using barriers.
Scent-Based Repellents
These use smells raccoons dislike.
* Natural Repellents:
* Ammonia: Raccoons dislike the smell of ammonia, which can smell like the urine of a predator or rival raccoon. Soak rags in ammonia and place them in open cans or near den sites (but be cautious if you suspect young are present). Refresh rags often.
* Mothballs: Some people use mothballs, but they contain chemicals and can be harmful to pets and children. Their effectiveness is also debated, and the smell might not stay strong outdoors.
* Predator Urine: Urine from animals like coyotes or foxes can be bought and used. This might make raccoons feel unsafe.
* Spicy Smells: Sprays with cayenne pepper or other strong spices can irritate their noses and mouths.
* Commercial Repellent Sprays: Many products are sold as raccoon repellent spray. These often use ingredients like capsaicin (from peppers), animal urine, or strong-smelling plant oils.
* How to Use: Spray these products around the edges of your yard, near trash cans, garden areas, or suspected entry points. You need to reapply them often, especially after rain.
* Effectiveness: Results vary. Some raccoons might ignore them or get used to the smell. They are generally not a permanent solution.
Sound and Light Repellents
- Motion-Activated Sprinklers: These spray water when they sense movement. The sudden noise, movement, and water spray can scare raccoons away. These can be very effective for protecting specific areas like gardens.
- Motion-Activated Lights: Bright lights that suddenly turn on can startle raccoons, which are used to moving in the dark.
- Ultrasonic Devices: These devices let out high-frequency sounds that humans can’t hear but are supposed to bother animals. There is limited scientific proof that these work reliably on raccoons outdoors.
Here is a look at different repellent types:
| Repellent Type | How It Works | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | Smells like predator/rival | Inexpensive, readily available | Fades quickly, must be refreshed, can be hazardous |
| Predator Urine | Signals danger | Natural | Expensive, must be refreshed, might not deter all |
| Spicy Sprays (Capsaicin) | Irritates nose/mouth | Natural option | Must be reapplied often, can wash away |
| Commercial Sprays | Various strong smells | Easy to apply | Effectiveness varies, need reapplication, can be costly |
| Motion Sprinklers | Startles with water/noise | Often effective, humane | Only protects small area, needs water source, can spray people |
| Motion Lights | Startles with light | Easy to set up | Raccoons may get used to them, might bother neighbors |
| Ultrasonic Devices | Emits high-frequency sound | Easy to set up, silent to humans | Limited scientific proof of effectiveness on raccoons |
Finding and Dealing with Den Sites
If raccoons are living in or near your house, finding their raccoon den locations is important. Common spots include attics, chimneys, under decks or sheds, and even inside walls.
Identifying Den Sites
Look for signs like:
* Repeated entry/exit at a specific point (hole in roof, loose vent, gap under deck).
* Sounds of movement, scratching, or babies crying (kit sounds) coming from inside a structure, especially in spring.
* Presence of a latrine (poop pile) nearby.
Humane Eviction Techniques
If you find a den, the goal is humane raccoon removal. You want to encourage them to leave on their own, especially the mother raccoon to move her babies. This is much better than trapping them right away.
- Timing is Key: The best time to try eviction is late summer or fall when young raccoons are old enough to travel with their mother. Avoid trying to evict a mother with young kits (babies) in spring or early summer, as you could separate them, causing the young to starve and the mother to become desperate.
- Use Mild Deterrents:
- Noise: Place a radio near the den entrance tuned to a talk radio station. The human voices can make them feel unsafe.
- Light: Shine a bright light into the den area. Raccoons like dark places to sleep.
- Smell: Place rags soaked in apple cider vinegar or commercial repellent near the entrance. Do NOT block the entrance or place these things inside the den.
- Provide an Escape Route: Make sure the raccoon can easily leave the den site with her young. Do not block the main entry/exit point while you are trying to evict them.
- Monitor: Watch from a distance to see if they leave. This might take a few nights.
- Seal After They Leave: Once you are SURE the den is empty (wait a few days after you see no activity), then you can seal the entry point using sturdy materials like heavy-gauge wire mesh or metal flashing. Bury the bottom edge if it’s on the ground.
When Removal Gets More Involved: Trapping
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, raccoons may persist. raccoon trapping is a method of capture, but it comes with many challenges and should often be a last resort or done by professionals.
Types of Traps
- Live Traps (Cage Traps): These catch the animal without harming it. They are wire cages with a door that closes when the animal steps on a trigger plate inside.
- Lethal Traps: These traps are designed to kill the animal. They are generally not recommended for homeowners due to safety risks and ethical concerns.
Challenges with Live Trapping
- Legality: Trapping and relocating wildlife may be illegal in your area. Check your local and state wildlife laws. Relocating can spread disease and puts the relocated animal in a new, unfamiliar territory where it might struggle to find food or shelter or compete with other animals already there.
- Handling the Animal: Once caught, you have a live, wild animal that can be scared and dangerous. Raccoons can bite and scratch and carry diseases like rabies and roundworm.
- What to Do After Trapping: If relocation isn’t allowed or advisable, you might need to humanely euthanize the animal, which requires knowledge and is difficult emotionally. Animal shelters or wildlife centers typically do not accept healthy, trapped wild animals.
- Catching the Wrong Animal: You might accidentally trap a skunk, opossum, or even a neighbor’s cat.
- Mother with Young: You might trap a mother and leave dependent young behind, which is inhumane and leads to more problems.
Using Live Traps Safely and Humanely
If you choose to use a live trap (and it is legal and you have a plan for the animal):
1. Choose the Right Size: Use a trap large enough for a raccoon (usually about 32x10x12 inches).
2. Placement: Place the trap on a flat, stable surface near where you see activity (not usually right at a den entrance if you suspect young).
3. Bait: Use appealing bait like marshmallows, sweet corn, or canned tuna or cat food. Place a small amount outside the entrance and more inside leading to the trigger plate.
4. Check Often: Check the trap very frequently (at least every few hours, and never leave it overnight in hot or cold weather) to reduce stress on the animal.
5. Cover the Trap: Once an animal is caught, cover the trap with a blanket or tarp to calm it down.
6. Wear Heavy Gloves: Always wear thick gloves when handling a trap with an animal inside.
7. Have a Plan: Know exactly what you will do with the animal before you set the trap.
Given the difficulties, raccoon trapping is often best left to professionals who understand local laws, have proper equipment, and know how to handle wild animals safely.
Calling in the Experts: Wildlife Removal Service
Sometimes, the problem is too big, too complex, or too dangerous to handle yourself. This is when you should call a wildlife removal service.
When to Call a Professional
- Raccoons Inside Your Home: If raccoons are in your attic, chimney, walls, or crawl space, removing them safely and sealing the entry points requires expertise.
- Suspected Rabies or Sickness: If a raccoon is acting strangely (aggressive, stumbling, confused, overly friendly), do not approach it. It could be sick. Call animal control or a professional wildlife service immediately.
- Mother with Young in a Hard-to-Reach Spot: Professionals have methods to safely remove families together or encourage the mother to move them.
- Repeated Problems: If you’ve tried various methods and raccoons keep coming back, a professional can assess your situation and offer more advanced solutions.
- If You Are Uncomfortable: Handling wild animals can be stressful and risky. There is no shame in hiring help.
- Legal Requirements: In some cases, only licensed professionals are allowed to trap and handle certain wildlife.
What a Wildlife Removal Service Does
- Inspection: They will inspect your property to find out where the raccoons are coming from, what is attracting them, and identify den locations.
- Removal Plan: They will create a plan for
humane raccoon removal, which might involve eviction, one-way doors (allows animal out but not back in), or trapping. - Safe Handling: They have the proper gear and training to handle raccoons safely.
- Exclusion: They will find and seal entry points to prevent animals from coming back. This is key for long-term
excluding raccoons from yardand house access. - Clean Up: They may offer services to clean up droppings and damaged areas, which is important as raccoon waste can be hazardous.
Using a professional wildlife removal service can save you time, stress, and ensure the problem is handled safely and effectively according to local rules. Make sure the service is licensed and insured and follows humane practices.
Stopping Them From Coming Back: Long-Term Prevention
Getting rid of raccoons is only half the battle. The real win is keeping them away for good. This involves ongoing raccoon damage prevention and making your property permanently unappealing.
Keeping Up Good Habits
- Continue Securing Trash: Never get lazy about locking lids and storing cans properly.
- Maintain Your Yard: Keep grass mowed, trim bushes, and remove debris piles regularly.
- Be Mindful of Food: Avoid leaving pet food out. Clean up fallen fruit. Be careful with compost.
Maintaining Physical Barriers
- Check Fences and Skirting: Regularly inspect fences, skirting, and buried mesh for damage or spots where raccoons might be trying to dig under or climb over. Repair promptly.
- Inspect House Entry Points: Check chimney caps, vents, and any repairs you made to holes or gaps to make sure they are still secure. Animals, especially raccoons, can be strong and persistent.
Using Repellents As Needed
- Targeted Use: If you see signs of raccoons returning to a specific area (like a garden bed), use targeted repellents like motion-activated sprinklers or sprays in that spot. Remember these require reapplication.
Educating Yourself and Neighbors
- Share Information: Talk to your neighbors. If everyone in the area takes steps to remove attractants, it helps the whole neighborhood.
- Learn About Raccoons: Understanding their behavior helps you predict what they might do and how best to deter them.
Long-term prevention is a process, not a one-time fix. By consistently making your yard less welcoming, you greatly reduce the chances of raccoons causing problems again.
Putting It All Together
Dealing with raccoons in your yard needs patience and a multi-step approach.
1. Figure out why they are there. What attractants for raccoons does your yard have?
2. Look for signs they are visiting or living there, and try to find raccoon den locations.
3. Remove or secure trash cans and all other food sources.
4. Get rid of easy water and shelter spots.
5. Install physical barriers like fences and secure entry points to your house for excluding raccoons from yard and structures, helping with raccoon damage prevention. This is key to prevent raccoons in garden areas.
6. Try using repellents like raccoon repellent spray as a temporary deterrent.
7. Use humane raccoon removal techniques, like mild deterrents near dens, especially when young are involved. Avoid trapping yourself if possible.
8. If you need to use raccoon trapping, understand the risks, laws, and humane practices, or better yet, call a professional.
9. Don’t hesitate to call a licensed wildlife removal service for difficult situations or if raccoons are inside your home.
10. Keep up with prevention methods to stop them from coming back.
By taking these steps, you can safely and effectively encourage raccoons to find somewhere else to live and look for food, keeping your yard and home safe from damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are raccoons dangerous?
A: Raccoons are wild animals. They can bite and scratch if they feel threatened, and they can carry diseases like rabies and raccoon roundworm, which can harm people and pets. It’s best to keep your distance and never try to pet or feed them.
Q: Can I scare raccoons away?
A: Loud noises, sudden lights, or sprays of water can sometimes startle and scare raccoons away in the moment. However, they are smart and can get used to these things if the attractant (like food) is still there.
Q: Will mothballs get rid of raccoons?
A: Mothballs are often suggested, but their effectiveness is not proven, especially outdoors. They also contain chemicals that can be harmful and smelly. Other methods are usually better and safer.
Q: What time of day are raccoons most active?
A: Raccoons are mostly nocturnal, meaning they are most active at night, usually from dusk until dawn. However, they can sometimes be seen during the day, especially if they are very hungry or a mother is out looking for food for her young. Seeing a raccoon during the day doesn’t automatically mean it’s sick, but unusual behavior should be reported.
Q: Is it legal to trap raccoons myself?
A: Rules about trapping and relocating wildlife vary a lot by location. In many places, it is illegal or requires a special permit. Relocating raccoons is often not recommended by wildlife experts because it can spread disease and reduce the animal’s chance of survival. Always check your local and state laws before trapping.
Q: How do I know if a raccoon has rabies?
A: You cannot know for sure just by looking. Raccoons with rabies might act strangely. They could be aggressive, fearless of people, stumbling, foaming at the mouth, or seem paralyzed. If you see a raccoon acting this way, stay away from it and call your local animal control or a wildlife professional. Do not try to catch it yourself.
Q: My pet got into a fight with a raccoon. What should I do?
A: Take your pet to the vet right away. Even if there are no visible injuries, the raccoon could have passed on diseases like rabies or roundworm. Make sure your pet’s rabies vaccination is up to date.
Q: How do I clean up raccoon poop?
A: Raccoon droppings can contain roundworm eggs which are harmful. Wear gloves and a mask to avoid breathing in dust or spores. Use a shovel or inverted plastic bag to pick up the droppings. Seal them in a sturdy plastic bag and put it in the trash. Clean the area with hot, soapy water and then disinfect with a solution of bleach and water (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). Be careful when using bleach. For areas like decks or attics, consider professional cleanup.
Q: Can raccoons cause damage to my house?
A: Yes, raccoons can cause significant damage. They can tear apart roofing, siding, vents, or chimneys to get into attics or walls. Once inside, they can damage insulation, chew on wires (creating fire hazards), and leave waste. Under decks or sheds, they can dig and cause structural issues over time. raccoon damage prevention is a key reason to keep them out.